A lunch, a dinner and a lunch in Naples
24 hours is no way to treat a city of such vibrancy and cacophony that is Naples. But if you are short of time and you have to chose just one or two things to do, eating is always top of our list. And Naples is dream for the gastro-tourist!
First a word of warning: Naples is not an introvert city. It’s loud – extremely loud at times. It’s fast – coffee machines are quick, coffee cups clatter rapidly on the counter, vespas carry people and goods at speed, vendors make haste in yelling their wares, kids agile as they dribble a ball through the passing traffic to score a goal against an old door with an imposing cross on it. It’s fragrant – the orange blossom and the sea giving respite from the thousands of cars speeding everywhere. And changing, as the bubble tea shops, and poke vendors find space amongst the traditional sfogliatelle and giarre coming out of the bar. And delicious: so many things to taste, so many dishes and delicacies…
Given the task ahead, planning is necessary: we planned where to eat and sleep in consideration of discovering as much as possibile, spend some time looking out at the sea, and feel the flow of the city – our three meals were in the upmarket and sea facing Chiaia neighbourhood. Our first lunch was at the Pescheria Mattiucci – a fishmonger turned cosy restaurant, where Crudo di Mare – raw seafood takes centre stage. Their limited selection of cooked dishes, included the traditional Neapolitan dish Moscardini alla Luciana, which was sensational and pure joy. This little, loud, vibrant gem is unmissable.
Dinner had to be pizza. We chose 50 Kalò, because they had won the best olive oil pizzeria in Italy, as well as being considered the 2nd best overall in Italy – and fourth in the world!. And it really is one of the best pizzas ever. Flavoursome and light at the same time, just total pizza perfection. And amazing use of different olive oils, to push in a whole extra layer of flavour.
After much coffee and sfogliatelle to regain balance, the final lunch had to be of a different pace, so we went to the Slow Food endorsed Friggitoria Osteria Mediterranea. A traditional seafood restaurant, with an incredible selection of deep-fried delicacies.
Our appetite satiated, we left wanting more time in the pulsating melody of this city.