In Emilia-Romagna, there is a sacred trinity of taste: Parmigiano Reggiano, Lambrusco, and Aceto Balsamico di Modena. Balsamic vinegar, dark and contemplative, has been enjoyed since Roman times but today it has been somewhat proliferated into a mass-market drizzle that probably resembles little of the region’s historic elixir. Don’t get me wrong, I love balsalmico in the right place, it can add a perfect, unwritten dimension to many different plates, but in my mind, it shouldn’t be your default for every salad or every table.

Crafted from fermented grape must, gently blended with aged and wine vinegars, and then left to rest in wooden barrels, balsamic vinegar is a lesson in patience. The wood breathes. Time deepens. The result is an elixir of deep brown hue, a softly persistent aroma, and a delicate balance between sweetness and harmonic acidity.

We have been using a selection from Giuseppe Giusti over the past few months, which has allowed me to understand more about what they are doing. It’s a name you can find pretty easily, but they really do a good job, their vinegards are differentiated as well as being benchmarks of each style.

Founded in 1605, this family knows their art intimately. They have five Balsamic Vinegars of Modena PGI that follow different ageing regimes. Each year a tiny amount of ‘extra-old’ balsamic vinegar is drawn off the ancient casks and a part is used to enrich the historical collections, while the most refined part is used to create the reserve and this is then bottled as the Great Ageing collection. Within the more accessible range, one of the highlights is Traditional, made of cooked grape must and aged using the antique solera method, which allows for the most integrated ageing process over a minimum of 12 years. The extra-old is aged for a minimum of 25 years.

So when should you be using balsamic vinegar and when not?

The richness of great balsamic vinegar makes it overpowering to very delicate ingredients. Take lettuce for example, it’s not the best match – rocket/rucola or radicchio however work brilliantly because the bitter, peppery character of the leaves are met perfectly by the sweetness of the vinegar.

It is also very good over grilled vegetables, certain risottos, seasoned cheese (particularly parmesan) or if you feel adventurous a very small drop over fruit such as strawberries.

Never cook with it.

And here are a few curiosities to pepper your knowledge of balsamic vinegar.

• The casks appear to be one of the real secrets. Giuseppe Giusti have 600 casks dating back to the 1700s which are still perfectly operational today. The older the cask the more complexity it adds to the vinegar.
• The Master Acetiere has the nose that makes the difference. It is often a family member which allows each house to produce their distinctive style year after year.
• Unlike with wine, vinegar cellars are located in the eaves where the significant temperature fluctuations promote maturation and ageing.

I also adore the vinegar of acetiamo, 30 years old and extremely fine. This makes a brilliant finish to a great dish. Not easy to find, because they make just 150 litres per year, but it is truly exceptional.