Rome for the seasoned traveller
Whether you’re a first timer or a seasoned Romaphile, there is always something to discover from the historical and cultural treasure trove of this city and this is part of what makes it so insanely compelling. Life just seems to happen in Rome it feels spontaneous as you stumble from coffee to the market, to lunch and on to a passeggiata. You really must explore it on foot because if not there are nuances you would miss.
Rome is of course not only an active and interactive museum of past and present life however, it is also a food lover’s paradise. With iconic dishes ranging from Bucatini all’Amatriciana to the finest wafer thin pizza Romana, from Carciofo alla’Giudia, to Puntarelle, anyone dedicating their time and curiosity to this eternal city needs to explore deeper through neighbourhood trattorias, bustling markets and osterias where ingredients are the focus and the exhaustive influx of tourism is a secondary concern. There are still so many exceptional restaurants in Rome that make no compromises and we wanted to share a few of these with you so that your experience of the city can be as great as ours.
WHERE TO EAT IN ROME
None of these suggestions are particularly upscale. Instead the focus is on an authentic approach to both ingredients and service.
Trattoria Da Cesare al Pellegrino – The beloved Monteverde trattoria, long a reference point for Roman cooking, has opened a second home in the historic space once belonging to Settimio. Much of the atmosphere remains intact – wood-paneled walls displaying the gentle patina of time. – along with a menu that nods to the past while carrying forward their historic touch. Expect the same faithful Roman classics, polished without losing their soul, in a location just steps from the centre. Don’t miss: rigatoni al sugo.
This wonderful traditional restaurant has a classic Roman menu and excellent service offered with great pride.
Located on Via del Vinimale 44, close to Via Nazionale and also to Termini Station so a great stop if you’re coming in or out from the airport. Don’t miss: Bucatini all’amatriciana
We still love Piperno – old fashioned in the very best sense but a distinct step up from trattoria level in its formality. It is excellent for the Roman classcs and a real joy if you manage to get a table outside in piazza.
Don’t miss: Carciofo alla giudia and Puntarelle salad. The Pasta e Ceci is also memorable.
We love Al Pompiere even if we preferred it when the restaurant was upstairs – but the food is still excellent! We have had more family meals here than I can count and it never disappoints. Located in the ghetto, it is the perfect conclusion to a morning of sightseeing.
Don’t miss: Their carbonara is heroic, as is their cacio e pepe.
Pizzeria AI Marmi (AKA l’obitorio)
For Pizza, it is hard to go wrong with this Trastevere institution. Open until the small hours of the morning, it is perfect after a concert or theatre event.
Don’t miss suppli al telefono and pizza with fiori di zucca e acciughe.
MARKETS WORTH A VISIT
Campo de Fiori whilst being probably the most touristic market in Rome, it really deserves a visit because the quality of fruit, vegetables and flowers is still upheld. Ancient and picturesque, it is a treat for the gastronome.
Testaccio Once a neighbourhood food market it has evolved into a modern-day bazaar where you can pick up fresh produce and other items such as clothing, shoes and home items.
Mercato Trionfale Located in Prati, one of the most elegant neighbourhoods in Rome, this culinary polestar is an excellent place to stock up on high quality Italian produce.
Fontanella Borghese If you love art or literature, this market offers a great opportuniity to find old etchings and prints as well as bargain books. It’s the perfect place to find old maps, vintage posters, pre-loved cameras and art of many shapes and forms. It offers something very different from the regular market. Open Monday to Saturday 9am – 7pm.
Piazza San Cosimato This hub of Trastevere life dates back to the 20th Century and many of the vendors are descendents of the original market traders. It sells the vegetables that Kasimir was brought up on and is unchanged in the very best sense.
Monti This market, located near to the Colosseum, houses shops from some of the most ground-breaking Italian fashion designers. You can find beautiful uncharted pieces of jewellery and accessories, items for the home and even vintage clothing.
La Soffitta Sotto I Portici loved by the young crowd in Rome this market ranges from bric-a-brac to vintage. Silk scarves, pre-loved jewellery and antique lace. Located between Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish steps. First and third Sundays each month 7am – 7pm.
Esquilino This market is located in the most multicultural and multi-ethnic neighbourhood in Rome. It’s a wonderful melting pot of old-world Italian stalls juxtaposed with Indian and north-African artistry. It is the best place to savour authentic culinary delights from around the world.
Campagna Amica This covered market is great for the food passionate. Locally sourced fresh ingredients it is a great way to understand the roots of the Roman kitchen.Open weekends 10.30am until 7pm.
Mercato di San Giovanni This open-air flea market sells all types of vintage clothing, accessories, handbags, among other items. It is open from Monday to Friday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. It is sometimes open on Saturday afternoons.